Lyubov Orlova in the Antarctic Peninsula

You could be the Official Quark Blogger and sail for free to Antarctica, February 20 to March 3, 2010.To earn your chance to win, post your entry, and convince the world that you have the right stuff to be our Official Blogger. If your entry earns the greatest number of votes, you and a traveling companion could be off for the adventure of a lifetime. We are looking for raw talent, with natural enthusiasm that pops out when their post is read. A keen sense of observation is required but blogging experience is not necessary. To enter or vote for your favorite entry visit the Blog Your Way to Antarctica site.

Post Comment | Comments (5)

Post Comment | Comments (4)

Since 1995 we have been working together with Thom Gilligan and his team at Marathon Tours and Travel of Boston, Massachusetts to stage a marathon event in Antarctica.  In March of 2009 the 10th Antarctic marathon took place.

All of these events have been run on roads that already exist at King George Island.  For those who aren’t familiar with this region, King George Island is one of the South Shetland Islands, and is just as beautiful as every other part of Antarctica.  An area of this island, Maxwell Bay, spans approximately 4 mi², and is home to four research bases:  China’s Great Wall Station, Chile’s Presidente Frei  Station, Russia’s Bellingshausen Station, and Uruguay’s Artigas Station.

This area of the island has been heavily impacted with roads, multiple buildings, fuel storage facilities, and various vehicles scattered about.   When I first visited Maxwell Bay in 1993 the human impact was immediately apparent.  At that time, fuel leaked from decaying storage drums, garbage and scrap metal were strewn about, and base personnel were selling articles such as whale bone and feathers – items that are protected under the Antarctic Treaty, and that we and all other IAATO members forbid our passengers from taking from shore.

It wasn’t until eco-tourists started visiting this area regularly in the mid-90’s that governments were forced to clean up their acts.  Passengers would return home and contact their government representatives to complain.  And even then it was primarily these same concerned passengers who were the first ones to clean up the bases, staying ashore for prolonged periods and loading waste on to ships to be returned to Europe.

Properly managed tourism can have a beneficial effect in environmentally sensitive regions.  In a response to my comments of May 4, 2009 on Quark’s President’s Blog, Mr. Dan L. Back of Alberta offered,“Responsible tourism and travel is at once the best watchdog to maintain natural areas while also providing economic benefit to often impoverished locals.”  Further, we believe responsible tourism can be an excellent tool to connect people across borders and cultures.  The marathons we have been operating achieve this, attracting entrants from around the world, and regularly from the four bases at Maxwell Bay to participate in events and raise global awareness about Antarctic issues.

It is hard to imagine a sporting event that could have less of an environmental impact than a marathon running race.  Using only re-useable water and food containers, and having toilet facilities whereby all waste is returned to the ships results in an impact of no more than footprints on an already well-travelled route. 

We will continue to work hard to ensure these events continue, continue to attract an international following, and continue to raise money and awareness about this extraordinary part of the world.

Post Comment | 1 Comment

Is there an element of personal risk to travel in the polar regions? Yes. Any one - or combination of - weather, ice conditions, vagaries of animal behavior, human error of either traveler or tourism professional – can result in harm to life or limb. That said, no expedition operator of repute would intentionally put their guests in harm’s way. It makes no moral or business sense!

Quark Expeditions has delivered unique itineraries to remote locations that no other company has been able to duplicate. Two reasons why are  1) our choice of vessel with which to operate the voyage and 2) the amount of time we invest in logistics to mitigate as much as humanly possible the inherent risks.

Waiting for another Titanic is the title of an article found in the February 14, 2009 issue of The Economist. The doomsayer article maintains that dire consequences are inevitable. This may be true for ill-prepared ships without ice-strengthening, but those of us in the business of operating small-ship expeditions to Antarctica know better.  Our ships are purpose built for the polar regions and our officers, crew and staff have significant polar experience. Ironically, the article noted above showed a photograph of our vessel the Kapitan Khlebnikov, the only polar-class icebreaker operating passenger voyages to Antarctica and arguably the strongest and safest ship possible for such use.

In 1991, tour operators got together to form The International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), because we knew a comprehensive plan to protect the region and the people visiting it was essential to reduce negative consequences. This April at a joint meeting of Antarctic Treaty signatories and the Arctic Council the safety of travelers was furthered, by the call for making the guidelines under which IAATO members voluntarily operate binding for all that sail south of 60. Quark Expeditions welcomes the change and is pleased that regulations are catching up to the lead taken by those who know this region best.

Post Comment | Comments (2)

Can we put the growth in Antarctic tourism numbers into perspective?

Pundits have cited the rapid growth of tourism to the region, calling for a limit.  Just how many Antarctic travelers are too many?

For three days in June 2009, nearly 200,000 people will attend the Glastonbury Festival, camping on an English farmer’s field. In August 2009, 50,000 people are expected to pack the main square in the historic center of Siena to watch the annual Palio Horse Race, which lasts a few minutes. On September 21, 2009, 100,000 people will attend the opening game in the new facility built by the Dallas Cowboys. An additional 20,000 will be accommodated in the building during the 2011 Superbowl. During the 2009 Alaska sailing season, 70 ships will disembark 87,500 travelers in Seward, a community that has a permanent population of just over 3,000.

Each one of the events I have listed will impact the local environment through human waste disposal, the accumulation of trash, water consumption, carbon emissions, traffic congestion, and noise pollution.

Compare the impact of the aforementioned activities to that of visitors to Antarctica. In the 2007-08 Antarctic travel season, 46,000 adventurers visited the continent. Only about 30,000 of them actually went ashore with about 16,000 remaining aboard cruise ships well offshore.  Those who went on landings, although spread throughout the entire continent, were mostly concentrated in the Antarctic Peninsula – a region covering roughly the same size as California.

All of those visitors were subject to some of the strictest industry regulations on the planet, designed to ensure any environmental impact was minor or transitory.  A sampling of these procedures includes absolutely zero trash left ashore, including no human waste; the cleaning of boots and clothing both before and after landings to ensure that organisms are not spread and taking nothing from shore except photographs and memories.

Quark Expeditions welcomes the call to make our present industry regulations binding and enforceable by governments. We also fully support and encourage ongoing scientific research into potential human impacts in Antarctica.  Additionally, we support ongoing monitoring efforts to measure and track natural baselines in the region.  As a company that specializes in introducing and sharing this amazing part of the world with others, we are of course keenly interested in its preservation in the most pristine state possible.  But that does not mean denying future visitors.  To us it means ensuring that any visits to the region are conducted in a controlled manner by visitors who are well prepared and expertly led.

Post Comment | Comments (4)

Post Comment | Comments (6)

10 March 2009

We’ve had smooth sailing and fine weather for the remainder of our voyage.  Yesterday afternoon we arrived in Stanley Harbour, East Falkland.

Most of us headed out of town for an hour or two to Gypsy Cove to see the moulting Magellanic Penguins and the gorgeous white sand beaches and turqoise waters.  Along the way a number of rusting hulks can be seen, leftovers from a bygone era when ships called in to Stanley for repairs after rounding the Horn. 

Stanley is a charming town home to a little in excess of two thousand hardy folks.  It’s easy to while away an afternoon nosing around the capital.  After weeks at sea surrounded by ice, snow and wildlife its nice to pull up a stool in a British pub for a plate of fish and chips and an ale or three.  One of my favourite spots in town is the cathedral, especially the sculpture out front, an arch made of Blue Whale mandibles. 

The weather in the Falklands has been spectacular.  On our approach to Stanley, fog gave way to brilliant sunshine and a host of whales, playful dolphins and Rock Shags entertained us.  We also passed two enormous cruise ships and I think without exception everyone was pleased to be aboard the Clipper Adventurer and not one of these giant behemoths.

Shortly after leaving Stanley a full moon rose under clear skies.   After dinner I indulged in a little experimental photography and managed to use the moon to sign my own name in a photograph.

Overnight we headed west to Saunders Island.  We launched the zodiacs shortly after sunrise and headed for the beach in strong winds.  The island truly is a wildlife paradise.  It is home to four species of penguin, the Rockhopper, Gentoo, Magellanic and King Penguins.  It is also home to nesting Black-Browed Albatross and Shags.  Curiously the shags, albatross and rockhoppers all nest together up on the cliff tops.  The albatross chicks are now fledglings.  They perch awkwardly upon huge earthen egg-cup nests and wait for their parents to return with the catch of the day.  Some spread their wings practising for the moment when they will take to the skies for the first time.  One adult albatross even landed at my feet and took a curious whiff of my boots.  Poor fellow nearly passed out but recovered and headed off into the colony.

Saunders Island is possibly my favourite place to photograph birds.  Not only is the backdrop stunning you can also get a photograph with a regal King Penguin alongside a humble sheep.  There are also dozens of other birds that call the island home including Flightless Steamer Ducks and Striated Caracara, a very rare bird of prey.

Once back on board we repositioned to West Point Island where we experienced the best weather of the entire voyage.  Once on shore we took a leisurely hike across the island to the Black-Browed Albatross and Rockhopper Penguin colony.  The colony at West Point Island differs from the colony at Saunders Island in that the birds nest amongst huge 6 foot high tussac grasses.   The landing also differs from others as there is a wonderfully hospitable family that offer tea and cakes amongst a lovely English garden once you’ve had your fill of the wildlife spectacle. 

Its been a wonderful day to finish a wonderful voyage… actually its not quite finished.  We have another day at sea tomorrow before entering the Beagle Channel and dispersing to all corners of the earth.  It’s been an absolute pleasure and privilege for me to visit these places and to share them with others. 

So that’s sayonara from me as another Antarctic season draws to a close.  Thanks for tuning in.  Don’t forget to check back in a couple of days.  I’ll post  a few images from the past 18 days after we arrive back in Ushuaia.

David Sinclair

Post Comment | Comments (4)

7 March 2009

Yesterday morning we rose early, about 4.50am and prepared for a landing on Prion Island to see nesting Wandering Albatross and the South Georgia Pipit.  A staff zodiac left the gangway after some difficulty loading and landed a short time later.  On the way we passed through a narrow channel boiling with fur seal pups.  After dropping off the shore party I returned to the gangway to collect passengers.  

After loading the first two passengers it was apparent that getting 109 passengers on and off the ship would be nigh on impossible and fairly dangerous, particularly if conditions escalated.  By the time the staff returned to the ship, 15 minutes after the decision had been made to abort the landing, the swell and wind had picked up even more making it a little difficult to get back on board for our crew of seasoned veterans.  Unfortunately the wind and waves continued to build so that Plan B, the massive King Penguin colony at Salisbury Plain and Plan C, Right Whale Bay were also out of the question in the conditions so we secured the decks and made for the Falkland Islands a little ahead of schedule.

As we pulled away from South Georgia we bid farewell to our last iceberg and were seen off by flights of albatross, petrels and prions.  The waves continued to hammer the ship sending clouds of spray over the top deck and blue water over the bow.  On occasions the force of the waves sent shudders through the ship.  To give you an idea of the forces imparted on the ship when I stepped on the scales in the gym at the top of a wave I almost achieved weightlessness, weighing in at less than 70 pounds and at the bottom of the wave as we slammed into a trough I weighed in excess of 260 pounds.  For the record I weigh approximately 175 pounds. 

Some folks love the swell.  It really is an amazing sight being up on the bridge watching the drama unfold, however, for the majority it’s a little uncomfortable and for some downright miserable.  Given we’ve had a good few days and are fairly tired after a hectic schedule a day or two in bed wont hurt! 

We’re still experiencing some rough conditions today, however, happily, the forecast is for fairer winds and good conditions for our landings in the Falklands.  Earlier this morning we passed by ‘Shag Rocks’, a rocky outcrop in the middle of nowhere.  Four rocky outcrops rise straight from the ocean floor.  The small ocean shelf provides a rich food source for a shag colony which must number in the thousands.  We continue to enjoy great close-ups of albatross and are savouring the prospect of some calmer seas later today.

A few blogs ago I mentioned running into a huge pod of migrating Sei Whales.  These whales were beyond the ‘furthest south’ we expect to see Sei Whales. Now that we have an oceanographer on board, Lars Boehme, whom we picked up at Husavik, we have a theory as to why we saw them so far south.  Apparently on South Georgia this summer approximately 95% of the Gentoo chicks failed.  Many parents deserted their chicks as they struggled to find enough food for themselves.  The water temperature was reportedly 5C warmer than usual.  The theory goes that the Southern Antarctic Circumpolar Current failed to deliver its bounty of krill for the Gentoos to gather food for their chicks.  The King Penguins forage further from shore and have a different breeding cycle so this may explain why the King Penguin chicks did not suffer a similar high mortality rate.  If the current failed to deliver the krill to the north, this may explain why the Sei Whales were found so far south.  I hope to get a more thorough explanation later today when Lars and his seal biologist colleagues give us a lecture on their work on elephant seals.

David Sinclair

Post Comment | No Comments

5 March 2009

My love affair with South Georgia continues unabated.  I can only imagine what Captain James Cook and his crew on the Resolution must have thought when they first laid eyes on South Georgia.  I can imagine why Sir Ernest Shackleton’s wife gave instructions to have her husband laid to rest at South Georgia. I can imagine returning to South Georgia again and again.

Last night we tied up at King Edward Point opposite Grytviken after a lovely afternoon hiking and beachcombing at Godthul.  Earlier in the day strong winds had prevented us from landing at Moltke Harbour and St. Andrews Bay.

South Georgia’s first land-based whaling operation was established at Grytivken in 1904 by Swedish captain Carl Larsen.  Grytviken is one of a number of largely intact rusting whaling stations that dot the east coast of the island.   Grytviken was also the scene of the first skirmish between Britain and Argentina in 1982 and it is the final resting place of Sir Ernest Shackleton.  In fact, I believe that on this day 87 years ago the Boss was finally laid to rest.     

A museum and church lie adjacent to the remains of the whaling station.  All of these structures lie at the end of a picturesque bay.   To the East the giant snow and ice clad peaks of the Allardyce Range dominate the skyline. To the West, a large bluff provides protection and a vantage point, the very same vantage point of the famous Australian photographer, Frank Hurley.

After toasting the Boss we enjoyed a visit to the museum.  The museum houses some remarkable artefacts form the whaling days and some remarkable wildlife exhibits including a humpback whale foetus.

After throwing the lines at Grytiken we sailed for Husavik, another picturesque bay north of Grytviken.  Husavik is one of three adjacent harbours, all home to whaling stations.  The other two are Leith Harbour and the more well known Stromness where Shackleton and his two companions arrived after crossing the rugged interior of South Georgia following their harrowing boat journey from Elephant Island in the James Caird. 

At Husavik we picked up three seal biologists and an oceanographer headed for the Falklands.  They’ve been studying Elephant Seals and we look forward to a first hand account of the results of their work in the coming days.  Shortly thereafter we decided to abort an attempt to retrace in reverse the final leg of Shackleton’s journey from Fortuna Bay to Stromness, once again due to strong winds.  Well every cloud does have a silver lining.  We sailed around the corner into Fortuna Bay and found a protected cove rich in wildlife and gorgeous scenery.  Beautifully lit mountain tops, glaciers, Reindeer, King Penguins, Fur Seals, Light-Mantled Sooty Albatross all against a lush green shoreline made for a beautiful afternoon.  I cant wait to review today’s images.

I’m ready for a kip now as I am a wee bit tired after enjoying the hospitality of the good folks that call the British Antarctic Survey base at King Edward Point home and tomorrow morning the first zodiac leaves for Prion Island, home to nesting Wandering Albatross at 5.15am!

Post Comment | No Comments

1 March 2009

More whales!

Yesterday was a ‘sea day’.  That is, we spent all day at sea travelling to our next destination.  It was the finest sea day I can recall. The sea was absolutely glassy, perfect for whale spotting and whale watching.   In the morning we spent time mingling with a small pod of Fin Whales followed a few hours later by a small pod of Sei Whales.  Later in the afternoon whale blows started appearing everywhere. For at least an hour in late afternoon light 20 or 30 Sei Whales all migrating north at a steady 5 to 6 knots surrounded us. 

At the time we were travelling with the whales we encountered a huge tabular berg that was slowly rolling back and forth.  It would start in the upright position and roll so that one side was completely submerged then revert to its former position.  As it rolled back towards the upright sea-water cascaded off its surface.  I’ve never seen a huge berg roll back and forth like that and I didn’t know whether to watch the berg or the dozens of whales around the ship.

This morning, shortly after sunrise, we arrived in Scotia Bay at Laurie Island in the South Orkney Islands.  Enormous bergs littered the ocean.  We attempted to contact our Argentine friends at the Orcadas Station to no avail.  After all it is Sunday today, a day of rest.  So, we sounded the ships horn to let them know we had arrived.  A short time later we established contact and it was agreed that we would come ashore at 8.30am. 

We had a lovely morning exploring the small isthmus upon which the base sits wedged between mountains and glaciers.  Lots of chinstrap penguins call the island home as do a vast quantity of fur seals and a few elephant seals.   The Argentine park ranger told me we’d just missed a pair of itinerant King Penguins.   Never mind as I figure we will see tens of thousands of King Penguins in South Georgia in a few days time.

On the way out of Scotia Bay the sun came out and illuminated an extremely unusual berg, an emerald green berg with white and grey streaks. The sound of cameras clicking could be heard for the next half hour, photographers beavering away trying to catch the special scene.  Chinstrap Penguins perched atop other bergs as if to bid us farewell.

Once back on board we completed the mandatory South Georgia Biosecurity briefing and vacuumed and cleaned all clothing, baggage and equipment to be taken ashore and all on board signed a declaration stating that they had read, understood and abided by the regulations aimed at ensuring no alien species are introduced to South Georgia. 

We are steaming north-east once more.  We expect to make landfall on South Georgia the day after tomorrow.  Meanwhile its time for more whale watching and bird spotting.  In the last two days we’ve enjoyed the company of a couple of hitchhikers, a Wilson’s Storm Petrel and a gorgeous downy Snow Petrel.

David Sinclair

Post Comment | Comments (2)