20 February 2009

It’s been extremely busy on board for all staff and crew as we try to make life as comfortable as possible for our new arrivals.   It’s an interesting dynamic as we have one group who are extremely grateful for being rescued and another group, the rescuers who have had their trip of a lifetime interrupted. 

Overwhelmingly people understand that their own desires and needs are secondary to all matters related to the rescue of the Ocean Nova and its passengers.  I can understand the disappointment at having a dream trip disrupted, however, this voyage has in many ways been a trip of a lifetime.  It all depends how you view life and the obstacles put in your path along the journey.  At the risk of raising the hackles of those who currently view this experience in the ’glass half-empty’ sense, this has in fact been a remarkable experience for passengers from both the Ocean Nova and the Clipper Adventurer.  I expect in years to come everyone will recant stories of the rescue and the beauty of Antarctica and no-one from the Clipper Adventurer will begrudge the fact that we went to the aid of another ship.

Its times like this that a few quotes from the explorers of the heroic age come in handy to put things in perspective.  My favourite is the final sentence of Apsley Cherry-Gerrard’s famous book about his horrific mid-winter journey to claim some Emperor Penguin eggs at Cape Crozier. “If you march your winter journeys you will have your reward, so long as all you want is a penguin’s egg.”

The first half of our voyage was exceptional.  We managed to see all the wildlife that lives on the Antarctic Peninsula with two exceptions, elephant seals which we would have seen in the South Shetlands and the Snow Petrel which is a fairly rare bird in these parts.  We also had one of the most pleasant days I’ve ever had in the Antarctic, gloriously calm and warm with views to mountains one hundred miles distant. 

The Clipper Adventurer passengers actually had a couple of bonuses.  We would not have made it south of the Antarctic Circle and we would not have seen the exceptionally beautiful Marguerite Bay not to mention the feel good factor of coming to the aid of others in need had the journey unfolded as intended.

Earlier today our expedition leader called everyone together to discuss the events of the last few days and give everyone an opportunity to share their thoughts and answer questions.  It was a terrific session to clear the air and put an end to any rumour and innuendo.

We are now northeast of the South Shetland Islands and we have the Ocean Nova a few miles astern of us.   Today the Drake is not living up to its reputation. We’ve got almost no wind, calm seas and blue skies.  On days like this we rename the Drake Passage the Drake Lake.

The downside is there is nary a sea bird in sight.  It’s just way too calm.  The giants of the southern ocean need some wind and swell to take to the air and stay there so on days like this they just sit on the ocean minding their own business content in the knowledge that a windy day is just around the corner.

In fact it’s so calm that me and one of my fellow zodiac drivers headed to the top deck for a workout.   We started out in the gym which is not as wide as the wingspan of a Wandering Albatross and only a little longer.  It’s usually a challenge to stay mounted on the exercise bike in the Southern Ocean.  Happily I’m not predisposed to motion sickness but I do tend to feel a little claustrophobic so after a while we headed to the top deck with skipping ropes in hand clad only in shorts and t-shirt and had a great time exercising in the frigid air.

Like the albatross we know wind is never far away and quite possibly in a few days time we’ll be staggering around the ship like drunks in a saloon.

David Sinclair

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19 February 2009

The good news is we’re steaming north with all passengers from the Ocean Nova on board.  

Yesterday was an extraordinary day.  We arrived in Marguerite Bay late in the morning. Marguerite Bay has to be one of the prettiest bays on the planet.  It is flanked by dramatic mountains and glaciers.  To the south huge triangular peaks loom and the bay is dotted with huge icebergs that have drifted north most likely from the Wilkins, George VI and Bach ice shelves.  The bay is actually a huge body of water encompassing many islands, bays and coves.  Ocean Nova was located deep into a spectacular bay only a couple of hundred yards from the Argentine Base, San Martin.

Ocean Nova had grounded on rocks between the base on the mainland and a small rocky island a few hundred metres to the west.  She sat 20 metres offshore and listing ever so slightly to the port side. 

Soon after we arrived the captain of Ocean Nova made an unsuccessful attempt to shift her off the rocks under her own steam.  An attempt had been made to shift her on the previous high tide during the middle of the night and she had shifted but re-lodged on another rock.  Hurricane force Katabatic winds had not helped.  However, when we arrived the wind had dropped to a whisper and the air temperature must have been around +3C, excellent conditions to transfer passengers, luggage and get Ocean Nova off the rocks. 

All of Ocean Nova’s passengers were transferred to Clipper Adventurer early in the afternoon.  While we waited for low tide to abate we were able to take passengers ashore on the island adjacent to Ocean nova, which I believe is called Audrey Island.  None of us had been ashore here before.  It was a super landing and great to stretch our legs.  We came across some Adelie Penguins, a Weddell Seal pup and many nesting Skuas. However, the highlight was the geology.  The sheer variety of rocks and geological features was stunning.  Our rock star, Wolfgang, was beside himself. 

On the way back to the ship we cruised past a gorgeous blue berg with a huge hole in the middle through which we could frame Ocean Nova and Clipper Adventurer.  The landing was a wonderful way to pass time waiting for the tide to come in. 

Around mid afternoon the operation to help Ocean Nova off the rocks commenced.  We used two zodiacs to drag a length of thick rope across the water to Ocean Nova.  Once the line had been attached to Ocean Nova’s stern, Clipper Adventurer inched forward ever so slowly until we had taken up the slack.  The critical moment was nigh.  Captain slowly increased the power and within seconds Ocean Nova was free of its predicament much to the relief of her passengers and crew.

In reality there was very little drama. I’m sure the incident has been widely reported.  One of the expedition staff from Ocean Nova is now on board with us and he is a Shackleton! I’m very much looking forward to attending a history lecture from Jonathon Shackleton later today.

David Sinclair

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17 February 2009, 10.15pm

I guess by now if you’ve been surfing the Quark website you will have seen the news of the day.  I haven’t seen the full press release but understand it’s pretty comprehensive so I wont go into much more detail except to say all on board the Clipper Adventurer  are in good spirits, everyone is understanding and happy to assist. 

Now, to rewind the clock to yesterday morning.  We started our day by passing through the Lemaire Channel in overcast conditions.  It was an extremely chilly morning but it didn’t deter anyone from getting out on the bow as we passed through the narrowest point between Booth Island and the mainland.  A pair of porpoising Minke Whales showed us the way.   Once through the passage we made a sharp turn to Starboard to head into Port Charcot where once again we visited the stone hut used for magnetic observations on Charcot’s 1903-1905 French Antarctic Peninsula and tried to find a representative of each of the three species of brush-tailed penguins that live on the island to pose for a photograph (unsuccessful I’m afraid).
We also took to the water to cruise “iceberg alley” where dozens of icebergs of all shapes and sizes lie grounded.  I wore a few extra layers after the extremely brisk start to the day, however, as they day wore on the sun shone through and the wind died away to reveal Antarctica in all its majesty.   It was so warm that I was able to enjoy a sandwich on the back deck in short sleeves on our way to the afternoon’s landing site, Vernadsky Station. 

After lunch we toured the Ukrainian base and nearby Wordie Hut.   One young man took advantage of the fine weather, dramatic backdrop and relative quiet to pose a question on bended knee. Happily the answer was in the affirmative.

Once all were back on board 30 folks took the opportunity to take a leap of faith into the deep blue.  I made the plunge for the third voyage in a row and I have to admit I like it.  A plunge in icy waters is better than a double espresso shot! 

After the plunge we hosted the Ukrainian crew from the base for a barbeque dinner on the stern deck.  It was magnificent dining out with a glass of mulled wine under clear blue skies surrounded by huge glaciers and mountain tops.  Later in the evening Mt Shackleton, Mt Scott and the peaks of the Lemaire were bathed in a gorgeous pink alpineglow.

Alas the blue skies did not last a full day.  We woke once again under cloudy skies off Prospect Point and the nearby Fish Islands.   Once we’d all landed on the continent proper, the seventh for quite a few passengers we took to the water once more.  We spied Orcas and Minke Whales, numerous seals and Adelie colonies.  Nearby, legendary wildlife film-maker Doug Allen was shooting the Orcas from Jerome Poncet’s equally legendary yacht the Golden Fleece. 

One of our zodiacs became trapped in ice.  It took some time to finally free the zodiac.  All involved were met with hearty cheers and a warm cup of tea on their return to the ship.  It was at this time that we were directed to head south to be in a position to assist the Ocean Nova should she not be able to refloat later this evening on the high tide.  Everyone is understanding and we are about to toast an unexpected bonus. We are only a few short miles from crossing the Antarctic Circle, which will mean two firsts in one day for almost all on board.  

David Sinclair

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15 February 2009

We’re back on the Peninsula and loving it.  After back to back crossings of the Drake it’s always nice to get back amongst the icebergs and mountains and leave the other six continents and the negative news cycle behind us.  The isolation really is seductive.  I can understand the allure of these far flung places for the early explorers and I can understand the reluctance many of the men had in returning to civilisation from the ice-bound seventh continent.

Day 2 of the crossing was fairly benign.   We experienced gusts up to 40 knots, however little swell made for comfy quarters and a well patronised dining room.

Immediately prior to spotting the first ice-clad peaks we came across a number of huge Fin Whales, two at close quarters.  The Fins are the second largest whale in the world behind the Blue Whale.  Penguins and Fur Seals started to appear alongside fairly frequently and the low cloud that had been a feature of the first two days lifted to reveal Smith Island in all its majesty, a fine start to the voyage. 

This morning we eased into Mikkelsen Harbour at the southern end of Trinity Island.   We landed on a small island right of the coast.  The island is home to colonies of Gentoo Penguins.  Whale bones litter the island and along with the remains of a waterboat are poignant reminders of the history of exploitation of the region.  The harbour had been used by whalers to moor their factory ships and was named after Norwegian whaler captain Klarius Mikkelsen.  

The good news is there are plenty of whales around.  A pair of humpbacks with a calf entertained us for some time on the way out of the harbour and on our second outing we spied a number of whale blows on the horizon.  Immediately prior to dinner up to 12 humpbacks were in the vicinity of the ship. A number were bubble feeding fairly close by.  Its spectacular to watch these massive mammals rise from the depths to capture a meal of microorganisms.

The afternoon was spent zodiac cruising in Cierva Cove on the Antarctic Mainland.  The cove is filled with huge icebergs and brash ice from numerous glacier calvings.  We encountered a number of sleeping Leopard Seals lying contentedly on bergy bits, no doubt sleeping off a meal or two of Gentoo Penguin. 

Our expedition leader suffered the ignominy of taking an unscheduled polar plunge much to the mirth of the expedition staff and passengers.  Laurie was presented with a polar plunge certificate by the expedition staff at the daily recap… I didn’t think it possible to embarrass our fearless leader! 

Off to bed now, early tomorrow morning we’ll pass through the Lemaire Channel once again and fingers and toes are crossed for clear skies and gorgeous light.

David Sinclair

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13 February 2009

Our last day of the last voyage was a little rough.  We experienced gusts up to 50 knots and swell of 4-5 m.  While it was nothing like the best the Drake has to offer it was enough to give some folks cabin fever.  My cabin is right under the bow.  I can promise you I didn’t sleep a wink but I didn’t mind so much as it is a bit of fun being thrown around in your bunk when you are not afflicted by sea sickness.  I’m sure the novelty will wear of quickly if we cop it again in the next few days. 

One of our expedition staff doesn’t take too kindly to stormy seas.  You might expect after years of tooing and froing on the Drake Passage that he would become accustomed to taking a hiding from the low pressure systems that force themselves between the Antarctic Peninsula and Cape Horn.  Not so for our resident orniothologist David Brewer, aka Birdy.  Birdy spent a longer than usual 12 hours confined to quarters but emerged in heroic fashion to deliver a fine lecture on bird migration.  In fact you have to drag our lecturers away from the microphone.  They’re an eclectic bunch of knowledgeable orators.  Victoria our historian who calls sticky Singapore home has an endless stream of detailed anecdotes of adventures past. 

Wolfgang our German Geologist is extremely fond of rocks.  ‘Wolfie’ can be seen snooping around examining rocks with an eye glass much to the amusement of all.  Our marine mammals expert, Peter Shaughnessy has been studying seals for 40-odd years and wanders around smiling all day and why not when you’ve spent most of your life travelling the globe and visiting wildlife in some of the remotest regions on the globe.  We’ve a fishing captain from Alaska, a polar addict from Toronto and myself, an itinerant lawyer/photographer to whisk people around and the dynamic duo of polar legend Laurie Dexter and his sidekick on many private adventures, Emily Schindler to run the show. 

Its wonderful to have such an experienced and decorated expedition leader.  Laurie was part of a team that spent 91 days traversing the Arctic pack from Russia to Canada via the Geographic North Pole and he’s also crossed the Greenland, Baffin Island and King George Island ice caps amongst other things.  He’s a wonderfully calm and cheerful leader.

The rest of the ship’s crew hail from all over.  We have folks from India, Indonesia, the Phillipines, Honduras, Guatemala, the Ukraine, Venezuela and more.  Our captain has been on board ships for nearly 50 years.  He is a rare bird, a Faroe Islander.  There are never many dull moments on board the Clipper Adventurer or any of the other ships in the fleet for that matter.

So it is with this diverse crew that we sail once again to tell the story of this fabled region.  Happily we’ve made excellent progress.  We have a slight following breeze and swell.  A front is building to the west so we expect things might hot up a little later this evening or tomorrow morning.

Right now we have four huge Wandering Albatross circling the ship in slow motion, a bird photographer’s dream, so sayonara for now, I’m heading out on deck with my trusty long lens.

David Sinclair

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David Sinclair, Quark’s onboard Naturalist and Zodiac Driver, blogs from Clipper Adventurer.  Join his discoveries of the Peninsula on the Classic Antarctica Expedition.  View David’s photography website at www.davidsinclairimages.com

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