3 February 2009

We arrived back into Ushuaia slightly ahead of schedule.  Everyone was ecstatic about spending a little less time than expected in the clutches of the open ocean.

It is always a little unusual seeing trees again after spending time amongst the peaks and glaciers of the Antarctic Peninsula.  The trees at the mouth of the Beagle Channel have a distinct lean.  Strong winds scour the landscape.  It is a fairly desolate picture, but beautiful in its own right. 

On the way down the channel, Chile is on the port or western side of the channel and Argentina is on the starboard or eastern side of the channel.  We pass small rocky outcrops that are home to colonies of Megallanic penguins and cormorants and on the final approach to Ushuaia the hills rise to form the jagged mountain range that cloaks the town.  At this time of year most of the snow on the summits has melted, however, on the morning of our arrival a fresh dusting of snow on the peaks lent a surreal feel to the town in the early morning light. 

The town itself is an eclectic mix of colourful buildings with an eclectic mix of residents and visitors from around the world.  The wharf is a hive of activity and often fascinating.  Expeditions ships, cruise ships, fishing vessels, container ships, research vessels, yachts and Antarctic resupply vessels vie for limited space.  

After bidding farewell to all the friends we’d made over the past nine days the crew headed into town to check email, take care of business and seek out a favourite eatery for a quiet meal before welcoming the next excited group aboard.   It’s always a minor cultural shock assimilating back into so-called civilisation.  After hanging out with seals, penguins, whales, albatross and each other we become a tight-knit group with a wonderful shared unique experience.  It’s often the case that when you’re a long way from civilisation, life could not be more civilised. 

Later in the day we returned to the ship to welcome aboard passengers for our next cruise.  After completing life boat drill, clearing customs we set sail once more for Antarctica.   Right now we are making good progress, with a little rocking and rolling.  Most folks are doing just fine, a select few are taking naps to get their sea legs.  Until next time…

David Sinclair

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2 February 2009

We awoke to overcast conditions in the South Shetland Islands.  Happily there was little wind and the air temperature was a mild 3 degrees celsius, nice conditions for a landing at Half Moon Island.  The island is crescent-shaped as its name suggests and is home to many colonies of Chinstrap Penguins, nesting Antarctic Terns and Kelp Gulls.  Opportunistic Snowy Sheathbills patrol the penguin colonies looking for wasted morsels of food.  The adult penguins return from fishing expeditions stomachs full, ready to feed their young.  I’m not an animal behaviour expert, however, it seems to me that the adults like to spend a little time once coming ashore to look after themselves and relax.  As son as they arrive back at the nesting site it’s a frantic scene.  Neighbours jostle for room and chicks beg incessantly for a regurgitated meal.

A squadron of fur seals kept us on our toes.  They’re fast across the uneven ground and have a fearsome set of teeth.  They’re bite certainly matches their bark so we kept an eye on them from a distance.  Inevitably two fur seals will not see eye to eye about something and have a red hot go at each other.  And, so it came to pass.  

After lunch the clouds gave way to brilliant sunshine as we relocated to Barrientos Island, a member of the Aitcho Island Group.  The island is a little unusual in that it is covered in mosses and appears yellow green from a distance, unlike the usual mix of white, grey and pink, the pink being algae or krill-laced penguin guano.  The island is also unusual for another reason… I’ll explain.

After all had landed and we had tied up the zodiacs a few of the staff had a little free time on shore to marvel at the wildlife and taker a few snaps.  Typically where staff are not needed for a little while we take it in turns to stand watch and patrol the beach so that everyone gets a chance to enjoy the landing.  When my turn came I lay down on the black sand beach a short distance from the zodiacs and closed my eyes to listen to the sounds of the penguins coming and going and the cries of the Skuas, Giant Petrels and Kelp Gulls patrolling the skies waiting for a vulnerable chick or spilled scraps of food.  I hadn’t closed my eyes for long when I felt something pecking at my trousers.  Two curious Gentoo chicks were trying to taste my boots and my trousers.  I stayed very still to avoid scaring the chicks.  They decided I wasn’t edible but I must have been warm as one of them climbed on to my chest and promptly went to sleep.  The other chick nestled in between my legs and grabbed a little shut eye.  I had to wait some time before they repositioned and I could slowly escape the clutches of these endearing creatures. 

During the afternon the wind speed steadily increased.  Finally the decision was made to sound the ships horn to bring everyone back to the ship a little early as the wind speed was approaching the red zone for safe zodiac operations.  Everyone got a good drenching on the way back to the ship but no-one seemed to mind after a wonderful final landing.   A short time later we were steaming for Ushuaia. 

Right now we are 50 miles east of Cape Horn.  We’ve made spectacular time with a following wind.  A few unhappy souls have lost their appetite due to the swell.  They will undoubtedly be grateful when we hit the calmer waters of the Beagle Channel well ahead of schedule.

David Sinclair

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29 January 2009

The good fortune experienced on day one continued for the first morning of day two.  We started out with another continental landing at Prospect Point.  A gentle snow slope led up to a heavily glaciated ice field.  Spread out beneath us the ocean was choked with old pans of sea ice and icebergs of all shapes and sizes and shades of blue.  After the landing we took to the ocean and cruised the glacier front along with a curious leopard seal and myriad penguins.  Some of the old sea ice pans were fairly thick so we were able to land the zodiacs and go for a walk on the ocean much to the delight of everyone in my zodiac.

During the cruise strong currents had pushed a lot of ice around the ship.  One zodiac became trapped in the ice for a short time.  With some help from the wind and a colleague the zodiac and its crew was soon freed from its predicament.  Once all were back on board we made for Duchaylard Island where we found a number of huge grounded icebergs.  A trio of humpbacks turned up to entertain us, however, the wind and swell started to increase so the ships captain sounded the horn and we all returned soaking wet for a warm cup of mocha. 

After dinner we cruised north back through the Lemaire Channel and on to Port Lockroy where we dropped anchor for the evening.  In the morning we had the good folks from the station on board for breakfast.   After breakfast we headed into the museum inside the old British Antarctic Survey (BAS) hut on Goudier Island and wandered amongst the Gentoo Penguin colony on nearby Weincke Island.

After lunch we sailed to the aptly named Paradise Bay for a visit to the Argentine base, Almirante Brown and a cruise along a huge glacier front.  We witnessed glacier calvings, whales, seals and nesting Blue-eyed Shags, Snowy Sheathbills, Gentoos and Cape Petrels.  Some folks took time to ascend the hill behind the base to enjoy views across the bay and the hurried descent on their backsides.

Once on board ship more than twenty insane folks decided to take the polar plunge into icy seas.  Two burly seamen hauled dripping wet passengers back on board and within moments the friendly hotel manager plied them with a shot of vodka to warm the cockles. 

We are now sailing for the South Shetlands and once more we are surrounded by humpback whales.  Until next time!

David Sinclair

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27 January 2009

The start of this voyage aboard Clipper Adventurer could not have been scripted any better.  After a wonderfully smooth crossing of the Drake Passage we awoke in Antarctica on day 3 to the sight of towering peaks and immense glaciers cascading into the sea.  Our expedition leader Laurie Dexter had set a demanding schedule for the day.   Everyone was up by 5.30am.  After a hurried breakfast we took to the zodiacs and headed for the southern side of Orne Harbour which lie son the northwest side of the Arctowski Peninsula near the northern entrance to the Errera Channel.  Some folks took a hike to the top of a precipitous snow slope to take in views of the Gerlache Strait and admire Chinstrap Penguins nesting at the summit.   Others decided a more leisurely start to the day was in order and took to the zodiacs for a cruise around the harbour taking in the wildlife and glacier fronts.  However, everyone landed initially as this was the first time all on board had set foot on the Antarctic continent.

We were back on board the ship by 8.30 and made for the Neumayer Channel. Along the way we encountered two pairs of Humpback Whales.  The day had started out fairly overcast but as we approached the entrance to the Neumayer Channel the clouds started to burn off to reveal the channel in all its majesty.  A couple of more whales later we eased into Arthur Harbour on the southwest coast of Anvers Island to visit Palmer Station, a US research station named after the sealer Nathaniel Palmer.  On the way in we passed a Leopard Seal sunning itself on an iceberg.

We were treated to small group tours of the base and while some took the tours, others landed on nearby Torgerson Island to admire the antics of the Adelie Penguin colony.  Near fully-grown chicks chased their parents all over the place begging for a little regurgitated krill or fish, others splashed about playfully, only a few minded their own business.  Nearby Elephant Seals and a lazy Leopard basked in the sun and Giant Petrels splashed about.

The ship was abuzz with chatter after a wonderful afternoon.  We had an early dinner to allow us to be out on deck in time to pass through the legendary Lemaire Channel.  Before we entered the channel we encountered more whales taking the total of whale sightings for the day into double figures.  As we entered the narrower section of the Lemaire Channel the light had taken on a golden hue.  A more magical view is not possible to imagine than the Lemaire Channel bathed in late evening light.  We eased through the channel at snails pace to soak up the atmosphere.  At the very end of the channel it narrows so much that you can feel like you can reach out and touch the sheer rock faces of the mountains surrounding the ship.

The wildlife took time out from their busy schedules to admire the view as well with Leopard and Weddell Seals hauled out on a berg at the end of the channel and a lone humpback whale splashing playfully alongside the ship as the sun sank below the horizon.  

The day was even more special for some with an engagement, a 48th wedding anniversary and a birthday all celebrated on the day!

David Sinclair

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David Sinclair, Quark’s onboard Naturalist and Zodiac Driver, blogs from Clipper Adventurer.  Join his discoveries of the Peninsula on the Classic Antarctica Expedition.  View David’s photography website at www.davidsinclairimages.com

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